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Category Archives: Fashion
Enthusiasms: Designs for New Women
At a time when the innovative designs of Coco Chanel are on display at the V&A Museum, it’s important to recognise the ways in which fashion design not only reflects but creates new social norms. Chanel has been feted for … Continue reading
Fashion in World War I: Christmas 1918
The Christmas 1918 issue of Les Modes seems like an appropriate point at which to end this four-year investigation of French fashion during World War I. This issue was one of the first produced since the Armistice, and included several … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I, Uncategorized
Tagged 1918, Alsace Lorraine, Burberry, Franco-Prussian War, Les Modes, Martial et Armand, Revillon, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: December 1918
The December 1918 issues of Vogue carried an unsettling mixture of features. Several articles prepared before the Armistice reported on the lasting effects of the war effort on the bodies of both civilian war workers and servicemen. A piece promoting … Continue reading
Fashion in World War I: November 1918
In early November 1918, French couture was in a state of limbo – looking forward to the imminent end of the war, but not sure when it would arrive, and still facing shortages and disruptions. New York Vogue reflected this … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I
Tagged 1918, Chanel, couture, Les Elegances Parisiennes, Les Modes, lingerie, Lucile, New York, Paris, Vogue
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Fashion in World War I: September 1918
The September 1918 issues of Vogue included a feature on the style icon Irene Castle, famous as a dance performer and teacher who had popularized the fox-trot, tango and many other dances. However the fashions she was modelling were for … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I
Tagged Atelier Martine, Beer, Chanel, female suffrage, Irene Castle, Lanvin, munition workers, Paris, Paul Poiret, YWCA
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Fashion in World War I: June 1918
In June 1918 Les Modes was not published, but Vogue reported from a Paris still subject to bread rationing – although the flight of elite families to their country estates meant that luxuries like taxis and cream were now easier … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I, Uncategorized
Tagged Hayward, Les Modes, Marthe Gauthier, mourning, Paris, Poiret, Vogue
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Fashion in World War I: March 1918
IN March 1918 Les Modes was not publicshed, so we have to turn to New York Vogue for news of Paris couture. Their reports can be summed up in the title of one of their articels: ‘The world and Paris … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I
Tagged 1918, Burberry, Chanel, couture, Doeuillet, jersey, New York, Paris, Vogue, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: January 1918
From 1918 onwards Les Elégances Parisiennes ceased to appear in its monthly format; instead, there were twice-yearly volumes devoted to blouses and fine lingerie. No explanation for this sudden closure was given, but it is likely that it was linked to the … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I
Tagged 1918, Lanvin, lingerie, Paris, rayon, silk, Vogue, wool, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: December 1917
The December 1917 issue of Les Élégances Parisiennes devoted several pages to a detailed discussion of the latest trends in lingerie, and linked this to the large number of society weddings for which trousseaux were being ordered. Apparently the shortage of … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I
Tagged couture, Elegances Parisiennes, Jenny, Lyon, millinery, Paris
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Fashion in World War I: October 1917
The fashion articles in the November 1917 issue of Les Élégances Parisiennes flagged up some radical new trends in cut – and its articles on the state of the fashion industry explained the economic rationale behind them. The new styles were … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I, Uncategorized
Tagged couture, Elegances Parisiennes, Lanvin, Paris, Paul Poiret, World War I
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