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Tag Archives: Vogue
Enthusiasms: Handbags and Modernity
What is modern about the handbag? It’s a tricky question to answer, as both terms are so slippery. Is modernity a concept tied to the latest innovations of the 21st Century, with everything that went before past and dead? Or … Continue reading
Fashion in World War I: November 1918
In early November 1918, French couture was in a state of limbo – looking forward to the imminent end of the war, but not sure when it would arrive, and still facing shortages and disruptions. New York Vogue reflected this … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I
Tagged 1918, Chanel, couture, Les Elegances Parisiennes, Les Modes, lingerie, Lucile, New York, Paris, Vogue
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Fashion in World War I: August 1918
The August 1918 issues of Vogue were a little light on fashion news – there was a long article discussing the relationship between styles of dress and styles of interior decorating, and several features on juvenile fashions, illustrated with photographs of … Continue reading
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Tagged 1918, Anya Hindmarch, Chanel, Lanvin, New York, Paris, Vogue
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Fashion in World War I: June 1918
In June 1918 Les Modes was not published, but Vogue reported from a Paris still subject to bread rationing – although the flight of elite families to their country estates meant that luxuries like taxis and cream were now easier … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I, Uncategorized
Tagged Hayward, Les Modes, Marthe Gauthier, mourning, Paris, Poiret, Vogue
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Fashion in World War I: March 1918
IN March 1918 Les Modes was not publicshed, so we have to turn to New York Vogue for news of Paris couture. Their reports can be summed up in the title of one of their articels: ‘The world and Paris … Continue reading
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Tagged 1918, Burberry, Chanel, couture, Doeuillet, jersey, New York, Paris, Vogue, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: February 1918
The French fashion press was clearly facing exceptional difficulties in 1918 Les Élégances Parisiennes had ceased to publish (apart from special issues on blouses or millinery) , and even the older established Les Modes only appeared five times instead of the … Continue reading
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Tagged 1918, Les Elegances Parisiennes, Paris, Paul Poiret, Vogue, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: January 1918
From 1918 onwards Les Elégances Parisiennes ceased to appear in its monthly format; instead, there were twice-yearly volumes devoted to blouses and fine lingerie. No explanation for this sudden closure was given, but it is likely that it was linked to the … Continue reading
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Tagged 1918, Lanvin, lingerie, Paris, rayon, silk, Vogue, wool, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: March 1916
For March 1916, we return to American Vogue, where the war was seen as having a broadly positive effect on the fashion industry. An article with the long-winded title ‘The Warp and Woof of Spring: France is producing some of … Continue reading
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Tagged 1916, Chanel, fashion, jersey, Vogue
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Fashion in World War I: December 1915
The ‘Fete Parisienne’ of couture fashion in New York generated welcome publicity for Paris couturiers – and funds for French orphanages. But it also highlighted some of the tensions between French couture houses which originated designs and American wholesalers and … Continue reading
Posted in Fashion, Fashion in World War I, Uncategorized
Tagged 1915, Cartier, couture, fashion, fashion marketing, Lanvin, makeup, military, New York, Paris, Vogue, World War I
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Fashion in World War I: November 1915
The big fashion story of November 1915 was the ‘Fete Parisienne’ organised in New York by the ‘Syndicat de Defense de la Couture Parisienne’. Its centrepiece was a short play by Roger Boutet de Monvel with a scenario that explicitly … Continue reading