Tag Archives: Chanel

Enthusiasms: Designs for New Women

Posted on November 30, 2023 by Clare

At a time when the innovative designs of Coco Chanel are on display at the V&A Museum, it’s important to recognise the ways in which fashion design not only reflects but creates new social norms. Chanel has been feted for … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: November 1918

Posted on November 4, 2018 by Clare

In early November 1918, French couture was in a state of limbo – looking forward to the imminent end of the war, but not sure when it would arrive, and still facing shortages and disruptions. New York Vogue reflected this … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: September 1918

Posted on September 2, 2018 by Clare

The September 1918 issues of Vogue included a feature on the style icon Irene Castle, famous as a dance performer and teacher who had popularized the fox-trot, tango and many other dances. However the fashions she was modelling were for … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: August 1918

Posted on July 30, 2018 by Clare

The August 1918 issues of Vogue were a little light on fashion news – there was a long article discussing the relationship between styles of dress and styles of interior decorating, and several features on juvenile fashions, illustrated with photographs of … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: July 1918

Posted on June 29, 2018 by Clare

The July issue of New York Vogue reported a damaging rumour that Paris couture Houses had closed down due to the bombardments, and would not be showing new collections in the autumn. In order to disprove this, they published copies … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: March 1918

Posted on March 2, 2018 by Clare

IN March 1918 Les Modes was not publicshed, so we have to turn to New York Vogue for news of Paris couture. Their reports can be summed up in the title of one of their articels: ‘The world and Paris … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: March 1917

Posted on March 4, 2017 by Clare

The March 1917 issue of Les Élégances Parisiennes showed spring fashions for day and evening; evening gowns in lace and fragile chiffons, and practical suits for day. The leading fabric for day was jersey, in wool, silk and mixtures which … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: August 1916

Posted on August 9, 2016 by Clare

The August edition of Les Elégances Parisiennes was deeply concerned with the shifting relationship between Paris couturiers and American fashion houses and retailers. There was a lengthy report on a new initiative to control and monetise the reproduction of French … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I – July 1916

Posted on July 1, 2016 by Clare

In July 1917, the contradictions underpinning Paris haute couture were more apparent than ever. On July 1 the Allied armies embarked on the assault that was to become known as the Battle of the Somme, costing an unprecedented 1 million … Continue reading →

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Fashion in World War I: May 1916

Posted on May 2, 2016 by Clare

The second issue of Les Elégances Parisiennes opened with a revealing discussion of the difficulties facing the French fashion industry in wartime. The Lyon trade fair for fashion trades the previous month had been a huge success, with large orders … Continue reading →

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