Light and colour

At the darkest time of year, it’s interesting to think about how much of a luxury artificial lighting was until the late nineteenth century, and the way that different forms of  lighting affected fashionable dress and interiors. Candles, oil lamps and gas lights all create a golden glow which would make medium-toned fabrics look richer. The flicker of candles would highlight surface trimmings – and jewellery of course. The electric bulbs introduced from the 1880s gave a clearer light which was thought to be unflatteringly harsh for women’s complexions (given that makeup was not normally worn). However they allowed subtle pastel shades – especially pale yellow – to be more widely used. ‘Electroliers’ presented designers with new opportunities, inluding the use of fabric shades rather than the non-flammable glass globes used for gas. Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s stark all-white interiors were softened by textiles designed by his wife Margaret Macdonald – including lampshades  with delicate applique and beaded braid.