Books:
2014 Art Nouveau Fashion (London: V&A Publishing)
2011 Editor and author (with Vivienne Richmond), Clothing, Society and Culture (London: Pickering & Chatto)
2010 Making, Selling and Wearing Boys’ Clothes in late Victorian England, Ashgate
1989 Children’s Clothes Since 1750, B T Batsford, London
Selected academic articles:
2023 “Women’s Ready-to-Wear Multiple Retailers 1860-1914: H.J. Nicoll and Alfred Stedall”, Textile History Volume 52:1-25.
2019 “The Fashion Trade in First World War France,” The Journal of Dress History, Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019:53-74.
2018 ‘Textiles and Texts: Sources for studying 18th Century Quilted Petticoats’ in Sabine de Günther & Phillipp Zitzlsperger (eds.) Signs and Symbols – Dress at the Intersection between Image and Realia (Munchen: De Gruyter :89-114)
2016 ‘”Rough Wolves in the Sheepcote”: the meanings of colour in fashion, 1908-14’, in Jonathan Faiers and Mary Westerman, Colors in Fashion (London: Bloomsbury: 155-68)
2015 ‘Age-related clothing codes for boys in Britain, 1850–1900’, Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion 2(2-3):127-42
2014 ‘Evaluating the Manufacturing and Retailing Practices of H.J. and D. Nicoll Through a c1860 Boy’s Suit’, Textile History 45(1): 100-119
2013 ‘The morals of language on slogan T-shirts’, interview in Stephanie Talbot, Slogan t-shirts: Cult and culture (London: A. & C. Black), pp.66-8
2013 ‘Working lads in late-Victorian London’, in Nigel Goose and Katrina Honeyman (eds.) Childhood and Child Labour in Industrial England – Diversity and Agency 1750-1914, Ashgate, Farnham, pp.297-314
2011 ‘Continuity and Change in Children’s Clothing, 1885-1920’, Textile History 42/1, pp.145-161
2011 ‘What was uniform about the fin-de-siècle sailor suit?’ Journal of Design History, 23/2, pp.105-124
2010 ‘Professional Quilters in Colonial-Era London’, in Spike Gillespie (ed.), Quilts Around the World, Voyageur Press
2009 ‘Advertising Ready-Made Style: The Evidence of the Stationers’ Hall Archive’, Textile History 40/2, pp.185-201
2009 ‘Exhibiting Knowledge: British Inlaid Patchwork’, in Dagmar Neuland-Kitzerow (ed.), Fabric Intarsia in Europe from 1500 to the Present Day, Museum Europäischer Kulturen, Berlin, pp. 87-98
2008 ‘Raggedness and Respectability in Barnardo’s Archive’, International Journal of Childhood in the Past 1/1, pp. 136–50
2007 ‘Bought, Stolen, Bequeathed, Preserved: Sources for the study of eighteenth-century petticoats’, in Maria Hayward (ed.), Textiles and Text: Re-establishing the links between archival and object-based research, Archetype Publications, London, pp. 114-21
2007 ‘‘The novelty consists in the ornamental design’: Design innovation in mass-produced boys’ clothing, 1840-1900’, Textile History vol. 38/1 pp. 1-24
2003 ‘Alla ricerca della cenciosita’ (‘In search of raggedness’), in Tiziano Bonazzi (ed.), Riconoscimento ed Esclusione, Carocci Editore, Rome, pp. 157-180
Selected journalism and media appearances
2021 The Great British Sewing Bee, BBC 2: interview about historic romper suits
2015 ‘”I was a different person yesterday”, Alice in Wonderland and fashion’, Financial Times Weekend, 11 April 2015, p4
2014 The Great British Sewing Bee, BBC2: interview about historic sailor suits
2013 The Great British Sewing Bee, BBC2: interview about historic dressmaking
2012 ‘All Work and Low Pay’, feature, Today, BBC Radio 4, 2-1-2012
2011 ‘Dr Barnardo as a Philanthropist’, interview, How New is the New Philanthropy (presenter: Professor Hugh Cunningham) BBC Radio 4, 19-12-2011
2011 ‘A Hundred Years of Women’s Magazines’, interview, Today, BBC Radio 4, 4-11-11
2010 ‘The Politics of Appearance’, interview, Robert Elms Show, BBC London, 21-01-10
2009 ‘The Liberation Look’, Times Higher Education Supplement, http://www.timeshighereducation.co.uk/story.asp?sectioncode=26&storycode=409273&c=1
2009 ‘Elias Moses’ Minion of the Million’, Bodleian Library, John Johnson Collection Online Catalogue, http://johnjohnson.chadwyck.co.uk/home.do
2009 ‘Imperialism and the sailor suit’, Journal of Maritime Research (online), www.nmm.org.uk
2008 ‘A Brief History of the Garment Industry’, www.fashioninganethicalindustry.org
2006 ‘Women still have to fight for room at the top’, Larry Elliott, Business pages, The Guardian http://www.guardian.co.uk/money/2006/nov/27/business.workandcareers