{"id":1556,"date":"2018-02-02T22:38:02","date_gmt":"2018-02-02T22:38:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/?p=1556"},"modified":"2018-02-05T12:37:26","modified_gmt":"2018-02-05T12:37:26","slug":"fashion-in-world-war-i-february-1918","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/2018\/02\/fashion-in-world-war-i-february-1918\/fashion-in-world-war-i\/","title":{"rendered":"Fashion in World War I: February 1918"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Wedding ensemble by Agnes with 'zouave' trousers<\/p><\/div>\n

The\u00a0 French fashion press was clearly facing exceptional difficulties in 1918\u00a0\u00a0Les <\/em>\u00c9l\u00e9<\/em>gances Parisiennes <\/em> had ceased to publish (apart from special issues on blouses or millinery) , and even the older established Les Modes<\/em> only appeared five times instead of the usual twelve per year. The first issue of 1918 includes an editorial apology for its late appearance, with a hope that if it is too late for Winter 1917-18 styles in France, it may be helpful for readers in South America whose winter season is yet to come. The content has a rather second-hand feeling, with a long article on a Red Cross fundraising fete on Long Island that had been reported in Vogue <\/em> in November\u00a01917. As the photographs used were the same in the two publications, the same international press agency must have been involved in both.<\/p>\n

The fashion reports in Les Modes<\/em> have a strangely detached quality compared to the detailed analysis of cut and trimming given in Les <\/em>\u00c9l\u00e9<\/em>gances Parisiennes. <\/em>There are some descriptions of specific ensembles: plain satin sheath dresses set off with contrasting waistcoats in richer fabrics are noted as a prevailing trend. There are also photographs of couture styles, modelled by actresses or being worn by fashionable women in the Bois de Boulogne. A brief description of each image is given at the end of the issue – but they are not discussed in the text. This is especially frustrating for the featured bridal ensemble by Agnes with avant-garde ‘zouave’ pantaloons; one longs to know more about the circumstances in which it was commissioned. It is interesting to see a Poiret coat with a distinctive quilted hem worn by Madame Cleews in this issue, as it had been sketched in Les <\/em>\u00c9l\u00e9<\/em>gances Parisiennes <\/em>in October 1917.<\/p>\n

The tone of the discourse in Les Modes <\/em> is agressively patriotic – a discussion of turbans as evening wear refers to Madame de Stael, the famous writer who wore a turban in a much-reproduced portrait – before rejecting her as a role model on the grounds of her praise of German national character, which had proved so misleading.<\/p>\n

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The\u00a0 French fashion press was clearly facing exceptional difficulties in 1918\u00a0\u00a0Les \u00c9l\u00e9gances Parisiennes had ceased to publish (apart from special issues on blouses or millinery) , and even the older established Les Modes only appeared five times instead of the … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[74],"tags":[138,108,73,76,80,69],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1556"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1556"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1556\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1570,"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1556\/revisions\/1570"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1556"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1556"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/clarerosehistory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1556"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}